Climbing Kilimanjaro has long been part of my list of challenges to be realized one day or another ... And if it is a dream to achieve quickly, it is this one, to have the chance to reach the summit icecap that should disappear within 20 years due to global warming and deforestation. Located in North-East Tanzania, Kilimanjaro is made up of 3 extinct volcanoes, including the famous Uhuru Peak, Africa's highest point (5892m), coveted by all trekkers keen to reach the summit of Kilimanjaro.
While waiting to make the climb myself, I give the floor to John (another!), Who turned 36 in Tanzania, eating Pop Corn and drinking a beer "Kilimanjaro" ... after having realized the mythical ascent of Kili. Attracted by the mountains since always, John also likes to travel and had a crush on Africa in the context of humanitarian missions.
Some information before leaving :
• Formalities: valid passport (not expired before 6 months) and obligatory visa,
• Recommended vaccines:
DTP, hepatitis B, typhoid, hepatitis A, yellow fever, antimalarial treatment,
• Best period: dry season, May-June to September-October,
• How to get there? direct flight from Paris. Duration ≈ 12h for Dar es Salaam,
• Time difference: + 1h in summer, + 2h in winter,
• Kilimanjaro: The accompaniment by a local guide is obligatory as well as a permit for access to the park. The trails are not marked.
Globetrekkeuse: How did you come up with the idea of climbing Kilimanjaro?
John: After climbing the Mont Blanc in September 2014, I set myself the challenge of making "feasible" summits to find the excitement of the summits. This feeling of drunkenness is summed up by the desire to go higher and higher, despite the fear of not getting there during the climb and the effort to get to the top. The satisfaction at the arrival makes forget all the difficulties, and very quickly, the glance turns towards other summits even higher to climb, other challenges to be taken up. It becomes an addiction, difficult to cure.
Globetrekkers: How did you organize your trip and the ascent of Kilimanjaro?
John: I went through the UCPA because I had a very good experience with them to climb Mont Blanc. There is a very good sport and always a very good atmosphere. The UCPA itself goes through a local agency and the big advantage is that the Tanzanian guide spoke very good French. Franck has been working for UCPA for 4 years and has a 100% success rate on the climb 😉.
Globetrekkeuse: What budget is needed?
John: For 2 weeks in Tanzania (with safari and ascension), I paid 3500 € through the UCPA.
For climbing Kilimanjaro only, it is necessary to provide 1700 € per person (with guide and porters) and add 700 € to access the Kilimanjaro Park, whether with an agency based in France or a local agency.
Globetrekkeuse: What was the composition of the team for this climb?
John: We went to 13 hikers with 6 guides, 30 porters and 2 cooks.
The porters each carried a maximum of 20kg of luggage (men or women). They are weighed at the beginning to verify this weight and distribute it equitably (except those who make the climb for the first time, which is limited to 15kg to test their resistance). The porters carry 6 days of food, our bags, and duvets, tents to sleep, eat and cook, as well as all cooking utensils. There is no help available along the way. A control at the beginning of ascent makes it possible to verify that the bearers have the appropriate clothing and equipment (cape, water bottle, frontal, warm clothing ...).
Globetrekkeuse: How did this climb of Kilimanjaro take place?
John: In general, we got up at 7am except on the day of the climb, where we got up at midnight. The cooks are very good: we had pancakes at breakfast, balanced meals and sports, and each arrival at the camp, hot drinks to comfort us.
We made the climb of Kilimanjaro in 6 days by the Rongaï way, also called "Nalemoru route" (complete itinerary described in the second part of the article).
Even though the weather was very changeable during the 6 days, we were lucky to be able to pass the summit in open weather with a magnificent sunrise.
Globetrekkeuse: Have you completed the climb? Have you thought of giving up?
John: We all finished. The guide is 100% successful with UCPA teams. There is a very good follow up by the guides, who are very professional.
I never thought of giving up because I had the chance to react well to the altitude. I just had a big "headache".
Globetrekkeuse: Can you describe the worst and the best moment of this climb of Kilimanjaro?
John: No worse time, just hard times in the rain during the first 3 days of the climb with even a little snow at the last base camp. It was hard to warm up, but fortunately, upon arrival in the camps, tea and popcorn were waiting for us.
The best moment: the arrival at the peak of Kilimanjaro with the sunrise, an impression of being very small and at the same time of being big.
Globetrekkeuse: What physical condition does it take to succeed?
John: You must not have an exceptional level of sport, but rather a good endurance. I run regularly (2 to 3 times a week), which is good to complete with another sporting activity. Kilimanjaro is not technically difficult, on the other hand, it takes a mental hell!
Globetrekkeuse: Your advice for those who want to try climbing Kilimanjaro?
John: You have to have the mind, the desire to succeed, and not want to climb in record time. You need to drink a lot of water (3 to 5 liters per day), taken from the rivers and purified with "Micropur" pellets.
Globetrekkeuse: Your next trek?
John: My next challenge will be more alpine: the ascent of Aconcagua, the highest point in the Andes (6962m). And why not go and discover Nepal ...
John's route, by the Rongaï Way
Climbing Kilimanjaro is possible by 7 official routes, the most popular being Marangu and Machame.
To know: the national park does not always allow to choose its way, to avoid an influx too important of trekkers and to protect the grounds of the erosion. In addition, depending on the route of ascension, the descent route is imposed.
Stage 1: Rongaï (1600 m) / Cave 1 camp (2700 m).
3 hours of walking.
Good weather and the chance to see the 3 famous peaks of Kilimanjaro: Shira to the west (3962 m), Mawenzi to the east (5149 m), Kibo (Uhuru peak, 5892m).
Overnight tent in bivouac at Cave 1 camp, located in the heather.
Stage 2: Cave 1 (2700 m) / Kikelewa Cave (3600 m)
5 to 6 hours of walking.
Ascending gently through the moorlands (short heath) and vegetation altitude (immortal). Passage to the last water point.
Night, in the rain, at the Kikelewa Cave camp, located near an ancient lava flow and the bed of a large dry river. Morale is a little socks, because we find that half of our business is wet on arrival at the camps.
Step 3: Kikelewa Cave (3600 m) / Mawenzi Tarn Hut (4330 m)
3 to 4 hours of walking.
Semi desert vegetation. The heather is everywhere, and the fog settles. The vegetation will be more and more rare. Installation of the camp at the foot of the Mawzenzi. The rest of the day can acclimatize to the altitude and discover the lunar landscapes that surround us.
Night in bivouac, between the rain and the fog. The canvas tent are wet, thankfully, we have Cointreau to add to our tea!
Stage 4: Mawenzi Tarn Hut (4330 m) / Kibo Hut (4750 m)
4 to 5 hours of walking.
In the middle of grandiose and desert landscapes, we progress slowly towards the shelter of Kibo Hut, with an arrival under the snow. Everyone is wondering about the climb that will take place in the night: Will we have good weather, can we leave, will we have the mountain sickness, is it that will we be well rested? We managed to sleep around 19h, because for the first 4 days, the guide has quietly made us eat and sleep earlier and earlier ...
While waiting to make the climb myself, I give the floor to John (another!), Who turned 36 in Tanzania, eating Pop Corn and drinking a beer "Kilimanjaro" ... after having realized the mythical ascent of Kili. Attracted by the mountains since always, John also likes to travel and had a crush on Africa in the context of humanitarian missions.
Some information before leaving :
• Formalities: valid passport (not expired before 6 months) and obligatory visa,
• Recommended vaccines:
DTP, hepatitis B, typhoid, hepatitis A, yellow fever, antimalarial treatment,
• Best period: dry season, May-June to September-October,
• How to get there? direct flight from Paris. Duration ≈ 12h for Dar es Salaam,
• Time difference: + 1h in summer, + 2h in winter,
• Kilimanjaro: The accompaniment by a local guide is obligatory as well as a permit for access to the park. The trails are not marked.
Interview and itinerary
John L Goins interview, the secret of success!
Globetrekkeuse: How did you come up with the idea of climbing Kilimanjaro?
John: After climbing the Mont Blanc in September 2014, I set myself the challenge of making "feasible" summits to find the excitement of the summits. This feeling of drunkenness is summed up by the desire to go higher and higher, despite the fear of not getting there during the climb and the effort to get to the top. The satisfaction at the arrival makes forget all the difficulties, and very quickly, the glance turns towards other summits even higher to climb, other challenges to be taken up. It becomes an addiction, difficult to cure.
Globetrekkers: How did you organize your trip and the ascent of Kilimanjaro?
John: I went through the UCPA because I had a very good experience with them to climb Mont Blanc. There is a very good sport and always a very good atmosphere. The UCPA itself goes through a local agency and the big advantage is that the Tanzanian guide spoke very good French. Franck has been working for UCPA for 4 years and has a 100% success rate on the climb 😉.
Globetrekkeuse: What budget is needed?
John: For 2 weeks in Tanzania (with safari and ascension), I paid 3500 € through the UCPA.
For climbing Kilimanjaro only, it is necessary to provide 1700 € per person (with guide and porters) and add 700 € to access the Kilimanjaro Park, whether with an agency based in France or a local agency.
Globetrekkeuse: What was the composition of the team for this climb?
John: We went to 13 hikers with 6 guides, 30 porters and 2 cooks.
The porters each carried a maximum of 20kg of luggage (men or women). They are weighed at the beginning to verify this weight and distribute it equitably (except those who make the climb for the first time, which is limited to 15kg to test their resistance). The porters carry 6 days of food, our bags, and duvets, tents to sleep, eat and cook, as well as all cooking utensils. There is no help available along the way. A control at the beginning of ascent makes it possible to verify that the bearers have the appropriate clothing and equipment (cape, water bottle, frontal, warm clothing ...).
Globetrekkeuse: How did this climb of Kilimanjaro take place?
John: In general, we got up at 7am except on the day of the climb, where we got up at midnight. The cooks are very good: we had pancakes at breakfast, balanced meals and sports, and each arrival at the camp, hot drinks to comfort us.
We made the climb of Kilimanjaro in 6 days by the Rongaï way, also called "Nalemoru route" (complete itinerary described in the second part of the article).
Even though the weather was very changeable during the 6 days, we were lucky to be able to pass the summit in open weather with a magnificent sunrise.
Globetrekkeuse: Have you completed the climb? Have you thought of giving up?
John: We all finished. The guide is 100% successful with UCPA teams. There is a very good follow up by the guides, who are very professional.
I never thought of giving up because I had the chance to react well to the altitude. I just had a big "headache".
Globetrekkeuse: Can you describe the worst and the best moment of this climb of Kilimanjaro?
John: No worse time, just hard times in the rain during the first 3 days of the climb with even a little snow at the last base camp. It was hard to warm up, but fortunately, upon arrival in the camps, tea and popcorn were waiting for us.
The best moment: the arrival at the peak of Kilimanjaro with the sunrise, an impression of being very small and at the same time of being big.
Globetrekkeuse: What physical condition does it take to succeed?
John: You must not have an exceptional level of sport, but rather a good endurance. I run regularly (2 to 3 times a week), which is good to complete with another sporting activity. Kilimanjaro is not technically difficult, on the other hand, it takes a mental hell!
Globetrekkeuse: Your advice for those who want to try climbing Kilimanjaro?
John: You have to have the mind, the desire to succeed, and not want to climb in record time. You need to drink a lot of water (3 to 5 liters per day), taken from the rivers and purified with "Micropur" pellets.
Globetrekkeuse: Your next trek?
John: My next challenge will be more alpine: the ascent of Aconcagua, the highest point in the Andes (6962m). And why not go and discover Nepal ...
John's route, by the Rongaï Way
Climbing Kilimanjaro is possible by 7 official routes, the most popular being Marangu and Machame.
To know: the national park does not always allow to choose its way, to avoid an influx too important of trekkers and to protect the grounds of the erosion. In addition, depending on the route of ascension, the descent route is imposed.
The route presented by John is a variant of the Rongaï way, with descent by the Marangu route.
Stage 1: Rongaï (1600 m) / Cave 1 camp (2700 m).
3 hours of walking.
Good weather and the chance to see the 3 famous peaks of Kilimanjaro: Shira to the west (3962 m), Mawenzi to the east (5149 m), Kibo (Uhuru peak, 5892m).
Overnight tent in bivouac at Cave 1 camp, located in the heather.
Stage 2: Cave 1 (2700 m) / Kikelewa Cave (3600 m)
5 to 6 hours of walking.
Ascending gently through the moorlands (short heath) and vegetation altitude (immortal). Passage to the last water point.
Night, in the rain, at the Kikelewa Cave camp, located near an ancient lava flow and the bed of a large dry river. Morale is a little socks, because we find that half of our business is wet on arrival at the camps.
Step 3: Kikelewa Cave (3600 m) / Mawenzi Tarn Hut (4330 m)
3 to 4 hours of walking.
Semi desert vegetation. The heather is everywhere, and the fog settles. The vegetation will be more and more rare. Installation of the camp at the foot of the Mawzenzi. The rest of the day can acclimatize to the altitude and discover the lunar landscapes that surround us.
Night in bivouac, between the rain and the fog. The canvas tent are wet, thankfully, we have Cointreau to add to our tea!
Stage 4: Mawenzi Tarn Hut (4330 m) / Kibo Hut (4750 m)
4 to 5 hours of walking.
In the middle of grandiose and desert landscapes, we progress slowly towards the shelter of Kibo Hut, with an arrival under the snow. Everyone is wondering about the climb that will take place in the night: Will we have good weather, can we leave, will we have the mountain sickness, is it that will we be well rested? We managed to sleep around 19h, because for the first 4 days, the guide has quietly made us eat and sleep earlier and earlier ...
One of the best articles around about Kilimanjaro's hike!
ReplyDeleteWow, well done John must be a great adventure and a heavy hike!!
ReplyDeleteDoes someone have experience with the finances?
ReplyDeleteI have one little sweet purpose for that Kilimanjaro :)
ReplyDeleteThat's rly not easy to be made, amazing one John keep the good work!
ReplyDelete